If you've read any of my posts so far, you'll know I'm a big Harry Potter fan! And when I'm not sharing the Potter love with visitors to London on my Harry Potter Tour, I can be found doing the same thing up in Edinburgh.
However, I know some people prefer to explore cities on their own so I have written this free, 13-stop, self-guided tour of Harry Potter book and movie sights in Edinburgh (Scotland's capital) along with a map and route.
Edinburgh Harry Potter Tours are popular, but with my version, you can stick to your own itinerary as you wander the streets!
If you're not coming to Edinburgh any time soon, you can do the tour with me virtually in this video below:
You can expect to walk nearly 2.2 miles or just over 3.6 kilometres while following the Harry Potter trail around Edinburgh.
I've also recorded this so you can also to take it as a GPS-led audio tour (see below).
Click the map to enlarge or download
The tour will last, on average, just under 90 minutes.
Although this may change depending on your walking pace or the stops you wish to make along the way. For example, if I am doing this with a private group, it usually takes us just over 2 hours as I like to stop for a coffee (or a glass of wine) along the way!
You can use the map or this (PDF) to get the written directions.
When I'm guiding in Edinburgh, I get a lot of questions about the Glenfinann Viaduct (the "bridge" that the Hogwarts Express crosses in the films). I am always sad to report that although it is possible to see it, it's located on the other side of Scotland from Edinburgh, just through the highlands.
It's quite a journey to get to on public transport (over 5 hours) but I have rented a car in Edinburgh and made the drive (3 hours) to see it for myself!
For my European guests, three hours is a long time to spend in a car but those of you visiting from the United States probably wouldn't think twice. If you are really into Harry Potter, or even just want to see as much of Scotland as you can, I would recommend it. I literally got my car from Edinburgh train station early in the morning and returned it later that night!
GPS-Enabled Audio Tour
I also offer an audio tour of Harry Potter sights in Edinburgh, which was researched, written, and recorded by yours truly!
Here’s a sample.
- Purchase an audio tour.
- Get a confirmation email with .mp3, .pdf, and embeddable Google Map
- Enjoy the tour(s).
Be sure to check out my other self-guided tours and free guided tours of Edinburgh.
I - and some colleagues - also offer Harry Potter tours, both guided and self-guided in London and Porto.
1. The Dog House
The Dog House is one of the few places on Earth where you can drink Butterbeer.
Note that you can also find it at the WB Studios and on our Harry Potter Tour where your ticket includes a bottle of the sweet stuff!
In the Harry Potter series, Butterbeer is sold at a multitude of pubs, but primarily in The Three Broomsticks and The Hog’s Head. I always imagine those pubs as quiet and cozy, which doesn't necessarily fit with the vibe here - it's pretty lively - but it's an excellent place to go. Also, the Dog House does some great food, which is always worth it - their loaded fries are worth a visit alone!
Although Butterbeer is consumed by adults and kids alike in the books, the one served at The Dog House is definitely for adults only, one of the ingredients being - you guessed it - beer. The ones I give out on my Harry Potter Tour and the ones I see in shops are all mostly alcohol free, so this is a bit unusual..but not a problem for me!
I've been lucky enough to try Butterbeer at a few different locations and this is one of my favourites. I like it because it isn't super sweet - like the one at WB Studios.
2. Spoon (Now Wu Zhen of China Restaurant)
Although the Elephant Cafe usually claims the title of the “birthplace of Harry Potter” I am here to tell you that this building played just as large a role in the creation of the legendary series. I've noticed that it doesn't get as much attention as the Elephant Cafe so if you like to avoid the crowds, I'd suggest a visit here!
These days, 6A Nicolson Street is home to a Chinese restaurant (dishing up some incredible dumplings - I'm obsessed with the steamed prawn ones), but in the 1990's it was a little cafe called "Nicolson's Cafe."
Back in 1997, Nicolson’s was owned by JK Rowling’s brother-in-law, Roger Moore. (Not THAT Roger Moore, although I did have to look it up just to be sure!)
At the time, Rowling didn’t have much money so she would hide out in cafes, ordering a coffee now and again as she worked on the groundbreaking first book of her Potter series, Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone.
Although the original furniture is long gone, we do know that JK Rowling liked to sit in a window seat upstairs so that is where I always try to go when I visit!
However, my favourite thing about this building isn't even what's inside, and is actually visible without ever leaving the street. As a nod to its history, on the side of the building sits an understated plaque which I happily note always remains (and I frequently check!), despite the continuous change of owners of the business.
Walk and Listen - POTTERROW
I confess that this may not actually have anything to do with Harry Potter but I couldn’t let you walk next to Potter Row and not mention it!
This street bears the name of the world’s favourite Wizard, and I think it makes sense to safely assume that the name perhaps inspired JK Rowling when she was naming her main character.
However, she says it’s just a coincidence. When giving her first-ever interview in America in 1999, JK was asked about the name of her hero and how she chose it.
Her reply was, “...he had several different surnames before I chose Potter. Potter was the name of a brother and sister who I played with when I was very young.”
I am not sure I want to argue with her, but considering I know she took a lot of inspiration from Edinburgh when creating her fictional world and naming her characters (check out the graveyard below), I can't help but think perhaps this little street, next to where she spent so much time, may have sparked something in the back of her mind!
And, if not, I think it's a cute coincidence anyway, which is why I've included it into this tour.
3. George Heriot School
Originally built in 1628, George Heriot’s school was opened as an orphanage and hospital for boys and today is a co-ed primary and secondary school.
Now, again, I am coming clean and saying that JK Rowling has never mentioned this school in any interviews I've seen or read from her over the years! But, the school is easily visible from the locations Rowling used to write in and walk along so I (and a few other Potter lovers) think this building could have been part of her inspiration for Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry.
You’ll notice the four grand towers that top the building which I think match what is described in the book! Although I'm Sur eyou'll agree with me that the castle as created for the films is much more engaging as this.
But there's another connection here which is that the school also has four houses that students are divided into...and (this is my favourite part) they all compete for a house cup!
I do mention to my guests that having houses in schools in the United Kingdom isn't particularly rare. In fact, all of my friends who went to school at places who had houses still remember the house rivalries, colours and songs, etc. from their time at school.
So, this isn't a unique thing to George Heriot, but, again, given the location I think it can't be ruled out as an inspiration for Hogwarts. It also makes me a bit jealous since I went to a standard state-run school in California!
4. National Museum of Scotland
I can usually take my guests into the museum for this next stop and I hope that when you take this tour, it's open so you can go inside. Obviously, I've included a photo for you below but I think these are really cool to see in person.
For your reference, the National Museum of Scotland is open from 10:00 - 17:00 (5:00pm) seven days a week.
For those of you into Harry Potter, (and I am assuming that's most of you who are reading this..?), you'll know that Ron Weasley teaches Harry to play Wizard’s Chess. In fact, Wizard's Chess played a huge part in the climax of Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone - watching Ron sacrifice himself on screen was always one of my favourite moments. I just think Rupert Grint is excellent, although that's not the point of this tour. Moving on!
Wizard's Chess is just like regular chess except the pieces are enchanted and can be directed like troops - they also literally knock each other down when taking a square.
It would seem that when Rowling was creating Wizard's Chess, she was also thinking of the Lewis Chessmen.
This is a group of distinctive 12th-century chess pieces that were discovered in a hoard on Lewis in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland in 1831.
Eleven of the over ninety chess pieces are held at the National Museum of Scotland and are viewable to the public.
I can easily see that the prop creators for the films used these as their inspiration, too. One of my favourite things to see at the WB Studios is the full-sized chessmen from the first film. I think it's so cool to compare them to these originals in the museum.
If I'm not on a tour, I can spend hours here (the section with artefacts from The Battle of Culloden is beyond description and I've literally walked through it dozens of times) so I'd suggest having a look around if you've got the time as there's far more than just this artefact to enjoy.
5. Elephant House (Temporarily Closed)
This unassuming cafe is a destination for thousands of Harry Potter fans every year - as well as fans of Ian Rankin and Alexander McCall-Smith who were well-known patrons.
This one has been a roller coaster for me. Almost every Potter lover who is coming to Edinburgh wants to visit Elephant House. But for the last three years it's been closed. There was a fire in 2021 and I had learned that the previous owners had gone into liquidation so the future of this important Edinburgh landmark was unclear.
It was reported in early 2024 that it was going to reopen this summer but I am sad to report that I am still waiting! However, their sister location on Victoria Street is open and there is some cool Harry Potter memorabilia there (including the desk I mention below).
You’ll notice a sign on the Cafe which erroneously claims that this is the “birthplace” of Harry Potter.
Rowling herself addressed this sign and is quoted as saying:
“I’d been writing Potter for several years before I ever set foot in this café, so it’s not the birthplace, but I *did* write in there so we’ll let them off!”
My favourite part of Elephant House used to be the loo, as the walls are covered in Harry Potter graffiti with messages and drawings left by fans who have traveled from all over the world to come here.
However, I am guessing that incredible graffiti - which I know took years to build up - was probably lost in the fire. However, I've read that the owners of the cafe did manage to salvage one of the tables that JK Rowling used to write at while she was here! Reportedly it will have pride of place in the new cafe when(ever) it reopens.
I would say it might be worth paying a visit to the Victoria Street location just to see the desk, and there is a stop on that street later on in this tour so keep an eye out.
6. Greyfriars Kirkyard
Even aside from Harry Potter, this is one of my favourite places to visit in Edinburgh. I think it's one of the most beautiful and fascinating (and apparently haunted) places in the entire city.
The name Greyfriars is in reference to the Franciscan friary which previously stood here, whose friars wore grey habits. And Kirk is an old Scots term for church.
As the kirkyard is not far from the cafes JK Rowling used to frequent, she would occasionally walk through the rows for inspiration. I love to bring my guests here but not tell them what to expect...the looks on their faces when we get to these gravestones are priceless!
I want to highlight three locations for you: Firstly, the tomb of Thomas Riddell (okay, the spelling is different, bit I don't think that matters), who lent his name to that of the Dark Lord Himself.
Secondly, I have also found William McGonagall, a poet who shares a surname with the head of Gryffindor House and, lastly, that of Mrs. Elizabeth Moodie who perhaps gave her name to a certain Mad-Eyed Professor.
To get to the graves we mentioned above, simply walk straight past the church, along the left of the building.
You will find them in the back towards the right, behind the remains of the old Flodden Wall, the remains of a 16th-century wall that surrounded the city.
The kirkyard is almost always open to the public, as is the church from April to October for tourism and year-round services. I like to explore it on my own but I have taken a few ghost tours which visit the cemetery at dusk so I can heartily recommend that if you're in the mood to get spooked! My favourite was this one - and not just because I loved the dress our guide was wearing!
7. Museum Context
Alright, you'll remember back at the Elephant House stopped I mentioned their sister site on Victoria Street and now I've taken you there! So you may like to visit that first (find it at Number 21), before visiting the next location on my tour: Museum Context at Number 40.
I, and some of my local friends, refer to this shop as ‘Diagon House,’ and you'll see why. Museum Context is a fascinating shop, spread over two stone vaults and looks exactly like the Diagon Alley shops as depicted in the Harry Potter films.
Absolutely every inch of the place is covered in interesting and quirky treasures to take home.
I have plenty of Harry Potter merchandise so it's hard for me to tell you what to buy inside as my suggestion is usually, "Everything." But, if you don't want to spend any money, I still recommend going inside as you can head to the top floor where you’ll find a wizarding desk with a hat that you can wear to snap a selfie while you’re visiting!
8. Victoria Street
I also want to point out that it isn't just Museum Context that is worth visiting here, it's the vibe of Victoria Street in general. In my Harry Potter Tour in London, I like to take my guests to the location of the "real" Diagon Alley - places we know inspired JK Rowling when she was writing her stories.
But I think Victoria Street is just as integral to understanding the "magic" (for want of a better word) that Diagon Alley possesses. I think it's also clear that the set designers came here at least once when created the designs for the film version of Diagon Alley.
This gorgeous, curving road looks just like the twisting and topsy-turvey thoroughfare in the Harry Potter films.
All these ramshackle, colourful buildings are tucked close together, with oddly shaped windows and roofs adorning each one. This is another place where, even if there were no Harry Potter connection, I would still love to visit!
I also encourage you to take a glance just around the corner is Candlemaker Row. I love that it is lined with cobblestones and filled with whimsical structures which, in my opinion, hold just a hint of magic!
And I have to point out the sign that reads AHA HA HA along the curve of the street at No. 99 West Bow - perhaps a precursor to Fred and George’s joke shop, Weasley’s Wizard Wheezes?
My personal tip is that there are some great pubs and restaurants on nearby Grassmarket, so if I am going to take a break during the tour this is usually where I do it. You'll find me in the charmingly named Last Drop!
9. The Witches Well
The Witches Well is a small cast-iron fountain - through which no longer flows - and a plaque, honouring all the Scottish people who were burned at the stake for witchcraft between the 15th and 18th centuries.
I actually extensively studied witchcraft, magic and religion in early modern Britain when I was at university so this fountain is especially poignant to me, which is why I've included it on the tour even though it has no direct correlation to Harry Potter.
Throughout the centuries, more than 4,000 alleged witches were put to death in Scotland - and a great deal of them right here. This touching memorial pays homage to those women and I have been known to leave a flower or two here myself when I visit.
10. Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle is one of my favourite places on earth so, of course, I've had to include it on this tour. However, I do think there is a Harry Potter connection here, as well.
When I think of Hogwarts as depicted in the Harry Potter films, it has a strong resemblance to this building, particularly its' location on top of a craggy outcrop.
An imposing, sprawling structure of strength and mystic design at the end of the Royal Mile that surges out of a great rock into the sky, it’s easy to imagine this building filled with hundreds of witches and wizards studying, playing, and living inside!
I feel very smug that Rowling backed up my opinion when she commented that now,”... I’ve come to live in the shadow of what could be a lot like Hogwarts, except Hogwarts has a lake.”
So aside from the missing lake (which, I have to mention DID exist in the 18th century on top of what are now known as the Princess Street Gardens), this castle essentially showcases most of the features and details of Hogwarts that Rowling describes in her books!
As a side note, there is a canon that fires at 13:00 every day (except for Sundays) which means the Castle is very busy.
So if you do want to go inside, I’d recommend coming either when the castle first opens, or in the late afternoon!
For those wanting to visit virtually, check out my virtual tour below:
11. The Writers’ Museum
This fabulous building is called Lady Stair’s House; a faux-medieval structure designed by architect Stewart Henbest Capper in the 1890s which now houses a museum.
Edinburgh became the first UNESCO City of Literature in 2004 and this Museum shows why.
Primarily focused on Robert Louis Stevenson, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Burns, there are also occasional temporary exhibitions. One of which was dedicated to JK Rowling and included a first edition copy of Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone with annotations and drawings by the author herself!
Sadly, I was not lucky enough to get to see it when it was there! However, I still like to include this location on my tour because, to me, it has a touch of magic to it. I love stepping down an unassuming alleyway to find myself in this quiet courtyard, surrounded by stone buildings that, honestly, remind me a bit of Hogwarts. I think if you look at the photo above, you'll see what I mean.
12. Edinburgh City Chambers
This beautiful building holds the Edinburgh City Chambers. Truthfully, I don't find this a particularly interesting building so for the purpose of my tour, you will want to head to the quadrangle in front of the building.
Here, under your feet, you will find flagstones displaying golden handprints. The handprints would be interesting enough but I think idea to colour them gold is particularly charming and really catches my eye.
These handprints are those of people who have won the Edinburgh Award - an award given to those who have made, “outstanding achievements and contributions to the city.”
Set up in 2007, the first winner was Ian Rankin, and the second, in 2008 was JK Rowling, whose own handprints are immortalised here.
I have definitely, more than once, knelt down and put my hands into the spaces she made with her own hands and I've seen plenty of others do it themselves so feel free to have a go!
13. Balmoral Hotel
I always feel like walking into this building is like walking back in time!
JK Rowling began writing her iconic book series in a number of cafes, but she would write the final words of the series in one of the finest hotels in the city, Room 552 of The Balmoral Hotel - marking the end of a true rags to riches story.
Today, the room has been re-named the JK Rowling Suite, and the room contains a marble bust of Hermes (now contained in a glass display case), scribbled with the following, written in JK’s own hand:
“JK Rowling finished writing Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows in this room on 11th Jan 2007.”
Today, Harry Potter fans can reserve to stay in the JK Rowling suite, although, it’s worth mentioning this comes with a hefty price - over £1,000 a night!
I confess that I have never been inside the suite, but I do visit the hotel frequently...or more specifically, their bar.
Bar Prince is one of my favourites and I try to have at least one tipple there every time I visit - the cocktails are especially delicious. My favourite is the Tequila Talks made with Tequila, limoncello and champagne which sounds strange but order it - I promise, it's worth it!
Or if spirits are more you're thing, you may spot me in their whisky bar called SCOTCH, indulging in the little-known, but my absolute-favourite whisky: Deanston (when in Scotland...).
It's a great way to soak up the atmosphere without completely breaking the bank.
But if you want to splash out a little bit, the Afternoon Tea in the palm court is one of the best that I've ever had!
Be sure to check out my other self-guided tours and free guided tours of Edinburgh.
